203544 Broce / Superior Front Hub & Rotor Kit - 12" Dacromet - 6 on 5.5" - Complete with Bearings & Seal

203544 Front Hub & Rotor Kit for Broce & Superior Street Brooms

Your front rotor is warped, scored beyond machining limits, or the hub bearings are shot. On most brooms, the hub and rotor are a single integrated casting — when the rotor is done, the whole unit gets replaced. The dealer wants $293+ for just the rotor, and then you still need bearings and a grease seal on top of that.

We sell the complete kit for $229 — the Dacromet-coated 12" integral hub and rotor plus both bearings and the grease seal. Everything you need to do the job in one box. Replaces Broce part number 203544.

Complete Kit — Everything in the Box

No chasing down individual bearing numbers. No guessing on seal sizes. This kit includes everything you need:

• (1) 12" Integral Hub & Rotor — Dacromet coated, one-piece casting
• (1) Inner Bearing — 25580 (1.75" ID)
• (1) Outer Bearing — 15123 (1.25" ID)
• (1) Grease Seal — 2.25" ID (Double Lip)

The bearing races are pre-pressed into the hub. Pack the bearings with grease, install the seal, and you're ready to go.

Why Dacromet Coating Matters

Street brooms operate in standing water, wet slurry, and road salt all day long. Standard E-Coat (black paint) rotors corrode quickly in these conditions — the cooling vents rust shut, the braking surfaces pit, and the hub bearings seize from corrosion wicking through the casting.

• Dacromet (This Kit): Multi-layer zinc/aluminum flake coating provides 1,000+ hours of salt spray resistance. The distinctive silver finish will not develop red rust under normal operating conditions. The cooling vents stay clear and functional.
• E-Coat (Standard): Thin black paint that provides basic protection in dry environments. On a broom, the E-Coat breaks down within a season and the rotor corrodes from the inside out — especially the cooling vents.

For a machine that operates in water and salt, Dacromet is the only finish that makes sense.

Specifications

• Broce OEM Part Number: 203544
• Type: Integral Hub & Rotor Assembly (One-Piece Casting)
• Rotor Diameter: 12"
• Bolt Pattern: 6 on 5.5" (Standard 5,200–6,000 lb Axle)
• Wheel Studs: 1/2"
• Coating: Dacromet (Salt-Spray / Corrosion Resistant — Silver Finish)
• Inner Bearing: 25580 (1.75" ID)
• Outer Bearing: 15123 (1.25" ID)
• Grease Seal: 2.25" ID, Double Lip (GS-2125DL)
• Spindle Compatibility: Standard 6,000 lb Spindle
• Condition: Brand New, Complete Kit

Compatible Equipment

The 203544 front hub & rotor fits the following:

Broce Broom

• Broce 350 Series
• Broce RC300
• Broce RJ350

Superior Broom

• Superior DT74
• Superior DT80
• Superior SM80

⚠️ Verify your bolt pattern (6 on 5.5") and rotor diameter (12") before ordering. Some broom models may use a different rotor size or bolt pattern depending on the axle specification. Confirm Broce part number 203544 in your parts manual. Contact us with your machine model and serial number if you're unsure.

Installation Notes

• Raise the front of the machine and support on jack stands — chock the rear wheels
• Remove the front wheel
• Remove the brake caliper — support it with a wire or bungee, do NOT let it hang by the brake line
• Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, castle nut, and flat washer from the spindle
• Slide the old hub/rotor assembly off the spindle — the outer bearing will come with it
• Remove the grease seal from the back of the old hub to release the inner bearing
• Inspect the spindle for wear, scoring, or corrosion — clean and polish with emery cloth if needed
• Pack both new bearings with high-quality wheel bearing grease — use a bearing packer or pack by hand. Every roller must be fully coated
• Install the inner bearing (25580) into the hub — the race should already be pre-pressed
• Install the new grease seal — drive it in evenly and flush with the hub face. The seal lip faces inward (toward the bearings)
• Slide the new hub/rotor assembly onto the spindle
• Install the outer bearing (15123) onto the spindle
• Install the flat washer and castle nut — tighten the nut to seat the bearings, then back off 1/4 turn and align the cotter pin hole
• Install a new cotter pin — do NOT reuse the old one
• Install the dust cap
• Reinstall the brake caliper
• Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts to spec
• Lower the machine and pump the brake pedal until firm before driving
• Bed in the new rotor with the caliper: make several moderate stops to transfer pad material evenly

Why Replace Bearings and Seal with the Rotor?

Since the hub and rotor are one piece (integral), removing the rotor means pulling the bearings and seal. Once a bearing has been removed from a hub, the race fit is compromised — reinstalling old bearings in a new hub frequently results in loose fits, premature wear, and early failure. New bearings and a new seal cost a fraction of the rotor price and eliminate the risk of a comeback. That's why we bundle them as a complete kit.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does "integral" hub and rotor mean?
The hub (where the wheel bolts on and the bearings sit) and the brake rotor (the disc that the caliper clamps) are cast as a single, one-piece unit. You cannot replace just the rotor or just the hub individually — the entire assembly is replaced as one piece. This is standard for trailer-style axles used on brooms.

Are the bearing races pre-pressed?
Yes. The inner and outer bearing races (cups) are typically pre-pressed into the hub at the factory. You install the tapered roller bearings (cones) into the races during assembly. If for any reason a race is not pre-installed, you'll need to press it in using a bearing driver or hydraulic press before installing the bearing.

Can I use an E-Coat rotor instead?
You can, but it will corrode significantly faster in the wet sweeping environment. The cooling vents will rust shut, reducing braking effectiveness and accelerating rotor wear. For a broom that operates in water and road salt, the Dacromet version pays for itself in extended service life.

Do I need any special tools?
A bearing packer (or the patience to pack by hand), a seal driver (or a block of wood and hammer — be careful to drive it in evenly), standard wrenches and sockets, and a torque wrench for the lug nuts. No press is needed since the races are pre-installed.